QUICK LOOK:
Location: San Vincenzo
Main Attractions: Piazza de Ferrari, Genoa Cathedral (Cattedrale di San Lorenzo), Boccadasse
Transportation: Walking, tram, train
Holidays: Earth Day, Passover, Liberation Day (Italy)
GENOA - Pesto and foccacia, Medieval alleys, creamy gelato, waterfront views. These are just some of the many reasons to fall in love with Genoa. We were only in Genoa a few nights, so we didn’t get to experience all of them; but, Genoa definitely showed me why people fall in love with it.
Italy has a special place in my heart. After I retired from the San Francisco Ballet, I took a year of Italian. It was only one year (two semesters at UC Berkeley while I was still figuring out my next calling), but it was during a big transitional time in my life and the one year of studying was enough to inspire me to travel there. It wasn’t until I met Brad that I actually went. On our honeymoon, we went to Prague (Czech Republic), Vienna (Austria), and Rome, Florence, and Siena (Italy). It wouldn’t be fair of me to say I love all of Italy (or any country as a whole) because I have never traveled the whole country. That being said, Florence immediately stole my heart—the landscape, the romance, the architecture, the language, the food, the kind strangers. All of it. I have always wanted to go back.
It makes sense, then, that when we decided to travel abroad this year, Florence was high on our list. Unfortunately, so were its prices. After researching more, we landed on Milan (sorry, I didn’t end up writing about Milan since we weren’t there very long) and Genoa. And I am so glad we chose Genoa.
We stayed in a surprisingly spacious apartment (it was one of the more affordable apartments, so we thought it was going to be small; but, it was quite large) in the San Vincenzo neighborhood surrounded by high-end clothing stores and right next to the Piazza de Ferrari and its beautiful fountain. On April 25th, it was Italy’s Liberation Day (a day honoring Italy’s uprising against the fascist regime and Nazi occupation), so we got to watch a parade of musicians and flag bearers (and anyone who wanted to join), as well as listen to the festive music and cheering crowds right in the Piazza. Actually, our very first night at the fountain, an entertainer (possibly a clown or a mime) came to take a photos with our girls. If you know our girls at all, you know they wouldn’t have any of it. They tried to put on a brave face until they couldn’t (see photos for before, during, and after below). Either way, they still enjoyed seeing that fountain every day during our stay.
As we explored Genoa, we soon discovered its charming maze of Medieval alleys called caruggi. Even though they can be dark, narrow, and even dirty, there is a charm to them. The deeper you go, the more likely you are to discover hidden restaurants, cafes, shops, art galleries, museums, and historical landmarks.
On our first full day in Genoa, we journeyed through the caruggi hoping to eat at Cavour modo21, a beloved Genovese trattoria near the waterfront (see their story here). Known for their award-winning pesto (it definitely won over our hearts) and traditional Genovese dishes, Cavour modo21 attracts guests from all around the world. Although we couldn’t get in for their lunch (the line was 20+ persons long and they don’t even put your name on this list if you have a party of 6 sometimes simply because they are too full), we went back early enough to get a seat for dinner and I am so glad we did. That night, we went all out—pesto and focaccia, panissa (chickpea fritters), trofie al pesto, pesto lasagna, grilled sea bass, penne arrabiata (a longtime favorite of my mom’s), and more. Our hearts and bellies were full and happy.
The next day was slightly rainy, but we didn’t let it stop us from heading to Boccadasse, a little coastal town heading east from Genoa. After a very short train ride, we arrived in Boccadasse. While heading toward the beach, we came across Yugo—a sushi buffet. It was crowded, but we got a seat almost immediately. It didn’t take long for us to figure out their specific system and start ordering. We had to have eaten through several pounds of fresh salmon sashimi alone making the buffet already worth it. But, we ordered so much more that it almost felt like we were stealing (or, as Brad would say, “It’s like they are paying us to eat!”). We loved it. The girls loved it. Another successful meal.
After our delicious Japanese meal, we walked to Boccadasse Beach. Almost like a miniature Cinque Terre (so I hear), Boccadasse has small, rocky beaches with colorful buildings overlooking the Ligurian Sea. We enjoyed skipping rocks and throwing them in the clear water before wandering through the town’s colorful buildings.
Fun fact: have you ever seen the Italian buildings with painted windows and shutters on them? These artistic optical illusions (tromp l’oeil) line the Ligurian coast and, apparently, have both aesthetic and practical reasons. Feel free to be inspired to look it up.
As we wandered through the narrow pathways in Boccadasse, it didn’t take long for us to embrace the charm of this small, picturesque fishing village. What a hidden Ligurian gem.
Our final full day in Genoa became a stay-at-home day after Noe woke up multiple times in the middle of the night throwing up. Something she had eaten didn’t sit well with her and wanted out. Thankfully, we had no set plans (originally, we had wanted to go to Genoa’s aquarium, which is the biggest in Europe; but tickets sold out quickly), so we just stayed in and relaxed the entire morning before heading out for lunch. Cavour modo21 was busy (as expected), so we headed toward the water and stumbled upon Molo modo21. We joked that perhaps it was a sister restaurant to Cavour modo21, but the joke was on us because we later found it was! It was delicious, but the best part for me is that I finally got to taste farinata! Farinata is bread made of chickpea flour, but it is often overlooked by the better-known focaccia. Well, my friends, the girls and I are, officially, farinata fans. That being said, it is not a competition. Both breads are very different and equally delicious. After we had our delicious fill, we hopped out the door and straight to the playground just across from the restaurant. Talk about a perfect location. Since Noe was still feeling not quite right, Vienna played happily by herself while Noe rested with Mama on the bench. Then, Brad took Noe and my mom back to the apartment while my dad and I stayed with Vienna. Little secret: my dad is her favorite, sometimes even over me. So, this was a special “date” for Vienna.
LEARNING LESSONS FROM GENOA
One. Pickpocketing - we hear about pickpocketing all the time when traveling and are careful to keep valuables at the apartment or deep in less accessible pockets, keep bags close, and stay alert. That being said, no one is immune to theft. On our way from Genoa back to Milan (we had actually gone to Milan for two nights prior to Genoa), three ladies were being overly helpful as the six of us carried our many bags onto the crowded train. They helped my dad with his luggage (without asking) and they helped my girls onto the train. We thanked them, but my dad and I had our suspicions (I found out later when I had asked my dad about them). One lady started speaking to me in Italian about how the girls are twins and how she is one (could very possibly be a made up story for distraction). But, then, she switched to Spanish. When I responded first in Italian and then in Spanish, I think it surprised her a little. I tried to keep an eye on the bags, but there were too many and it was super crowded. When they got off at the next stop, we noticed about four of our bags had zippers partially opened. Had I seen them in action, I would have definitely shared some “kind” words with them. That being said, they weren’t successful because 1) we all keep any valuables tucked deeply in our bags in hidden areas and 2) if they did feel in the bags that had been unzipped, they probably would have felt toys and clothes, especially the bag of clothes with some of Noe’s vomit still stained on them. So, as much as I would have loved to share my wisdom with these ladies, I am just grateful we were all safe and nothing was actually stolen.
Two. “Mind the gap” - if you have ridden any trains, you probably recognize that phrase or something similar. Our girls are bright little girls and very cautious. So, it wasn’t like Vienna to do this, but accidents do happen. As we onboarded a tram, Vienna fell into the gap between the train and the platform. Thankfully, I was right behind her and was able to throw my luggage in (a kind mom held my luggage with tears in her eyes. I am ever so grateful for her) and pick her up. However, while doing so, she managed to cut her self. We didn’t notice the cut until later that evening when she tried to urinate and screamed in pain. Thankfully, after a day and a half of peeing in pain or holding it in, I found a form of bacitracin at a store and it amazingly healed well overnight. Of course, the cut was probably still there, but she was so happy when she went to pee (she was so scared and trying to be so brave) and it didn’t hurt. I don’t think I have ever seen her so relieved. When I asked her later what had happened at the tram (just in a curious, caring way) she said she was trying so hard to get on quickly so nobody would get hurt (she remembers when the doors slammed on me on one of the trams and wouldn’t open. I had to just squeeze through, scraping my arms) or fall into the gap that she missed her step and fell in. This is very Vienna if you know her. She has a very considerate heart, but sometimes to her detriment. I grabbed her so fast she didn’t even have time to pick herself up, but we still talked about what she could do if someone wasn’t able to grab her quickly—that she could just throw down whatever she’s holding and use her hands to pull herself up. She responded, “I can do that.” I know she can, but I also know how our brains sometimes go into shock during these situations. I never expect her to be in that exact situation again, but I like to make sure our girls know that, even though they are small and young, they can do a lot.
Three. Food poisoning - remember how Noe threw up one of the nights (whatever food she ate that didn’t sit well with her also came out the other way…poor little thing)? Well, a similar thing happened to Vienna, but two nights later. It was milder, but let’s just say that those last few days in Italy were quite a bit more challenging.
With all the unexpected events mentioned above, there was so much more that made our time in Genoa special: delicious meals, time with parents (girls loved seeing their grandparents and having more “friends” to play with), charming alley ways, Boccadasse (a hidden gem), Italian celebrations (Liberation Day) in the Piazza, and true Italian gelato.
“Going through things you never thought you’d go through
will only take you places you never thought you’d get to.”
- Morgan Harper Nichols
Thank you, Genoa, for sharing your Italian charm and life lessons.
Ciao!
Photo: this photo was taken in Milan, not Genoa, but it was too perfect not to use.
What a beautiful city! Pictures are gorgeous! I'm glad you are safe despite accidents. The Lord is watching over you. Give the girls a hug for me. Love💗