KANCHANABURI, THAILAND (Week 20)

QUICK LOOK:

Location: Mueang Kanchanaburi

Main Attractions: Kwai River, Death Railway, Kanchanaburi War Cemetery, Erawan National Park, Taweechai Elephant Camp, Elephant Haven Thailand, Adam’s Coffee

Transportation: Personal driver, walking

KANCHANABURI - About 150 kilometers northwest of Bangkok is a province called Khanchanaburi. About seven or so years ago, Brad and I made a trip there (pre-kids) and absolutely loved it. We stayed at Sabai @ Kan, visited the JEATH War Museum and Kanchanaburi War Cemetery, walked the main road, enjoyed the restaurant scene, rented a scooter and drove around, hiked Erawan Falls, and rode the train over the railway back over to Bangkok. Seven years later and we are back at Sabai @ Kan with my parents for one final trip before heading home (see next post).

Kanchanaburi is a popular province where the Khwae Noi (small) and Khwae Yai (large) Rivers meet to form the Mae Klong River. It is known for its beautiful nature, elephant sanctuaries, refreshing waterfalls, and rich history. When we arrived in Kanchanaburi, our driver took us directly to the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery—a cemetery and memorial commemorating several of the men that died while building the Siam-Burma Railway (also known as the Death Railway) during WWII. Lush, green grass blanketed the land and colorful flowers adorned each grave site. It warmed my heart knowing that the Thai community worked hard to maintain the grounds to respect and honor the several Allied POWs (English, American, and Dutch) that risked their lives building the railway.

Adjacent to the cemetery is the JEATH (Japan, England, Australia, Thailand, and Holland) War Musuem. We did not go this time around, but I recall going with Brad seven years ago and learning about the poor living conditions and lack of care for those forced to build the Death Railway. After visiting the cemetery, we drove to one of the main sites for the railway. Spanning from Thailand to Burma, the Siam-Burma Railway was a result of the Japanese invasion of both countries during WWII. In 1942, the Japanese needed a way to supply their troops in Burma, so they decided to build a 415-kilometer railway linking Bangkok to Rangoon. They drew from two main sources—local men, women, and children (including Thais, Burmese, Tamils, Chinese, and more) and Allied POWs (including Australians, British, and Dutch). Workers were forced to cut through the jungle terrain and tirelessly build the railway while living off of meager meals and in poorly-maintained camps. Several died of various diseases, but the construction continued.

The Siam-Burma Railway was completed in October 1943 and was used to bring supplies to the Japanese troops in Burma. Over time, the railway underwent multiple attempts of destruction and became torn up and overgrown. However, you can ride a portion of it, which Brad and I did seven years ago. This time, we walked with my parents and the girls across a portion of the railway in Kanchanaburi remembering and honoring the people who risked their lives for their countries.

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In addition to its rich history, Kanchanaburi is known for its picturesque nature and refreshing waterfalls. The next morning, we took a trip to Erawan National Park where you can climb up to the seven waterfalls and even swim at some of the levels. Last time, Brad and I went to the fourth waterfall. This time, our girls were so excited that we made it to the fifth. I was so impressed because, although the hike itself is mild-to-medium rigorous, it is the heat, humidity, and mosquitoes that pose a bigger challenge.

Each waterfall has its unique characteristics. The second waterfall is quite stunning; the third waterfall an enjoyable one to swim in and where your feet can be tickled by fish; and the fourth waterfall having large rocks that are perfect for sliding down. Although we didn’t swim ourselves this time, we quite enjoyed watching the several visitors attempting.

After our long hike, we enjoyed a meal at the bottom of the falls and headed out to find elephants.

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I had really wanted to take our girls to Elephant Haven Thailand in Sai Yok—an ethical sanctuary for elephants to roam, socialize, and bathe in the River Kwai. They call it the “Saddle Off” program in which saddles come off, meaning no performances or rides. As much as I would have loved to take the girls there, time was limited. So, on our way from Erawan National Park to Bangkok, we stopped at Taweechai Elephant Camp in hopes of, at least, seeing elephants from afar. Thankfully, we could go down to the connected cafe, Adam’s Coffee, and purchase bananas to feed the baby elephants. While we were there, we got to meet an 8-month-old baby elephant. The other three young ones had just set off to go roam in the grass and eat, so this little guy got a lot of our attention. As you know, our girls like animals from afar. So, I was so impressed when they fed the elephant themselves. Noe was still hesitant to pet him, but Vienna got up close and stroked his head. Elephants are quite adorable and they are very special in Thailand, even a symbol of strength. I am so glad we had the opportunity to spend time with one.

After feeding the baby elephant, Brad decided to be bold and purchase a coffee at Adam’s Coffee. The reason I say bold is because their coffee comes from elephant poop. Yes - you heard me correctly. Elephant poop coffee (the most popular being Black Ivory Coffee) is actually coffee made from elephant poop. Okay, not exactly. Apparently, elephants enjoy coffee beans. So, caretakers allow elephants to eat the coffee beans, then they extract the beans from the elephants’ stool, filter it, and brew it into a nice cup of coffee. Brad and the driver were the only two braves ones, but they both tried it and liked it!

After a lovely day of waterfalls, elephants, and coffee, we headed back to our condo in Bangkok.

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We had such a lovely time visiting Kanchanaburi and exploring its history, waterfalls, nature, and elephants. It truly was a perfect way to spend time with family and end our time in Thailand.

สวัสดีค่า (Swasdee Ka)