PHETCHABURI, THAILAND (Week 19)

QUICK LOOK:

Location: Tha Hin

Main Attractions: Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park (Khao Wang), Coffee River (by unnamed bridge), The Life Garden Cafe, Cha-Am, Hat Chao-Samran, Wat Phetch Plee

Transportation: Family’s cars

Holidays: Father’s Day, Juneteenth

PHETCHABURI - About 130 km southwest of Bangkok is the province of Phetchaburi, my dad’s hometown. Bordering Myanmar to its left, Phetchaburi is not that much smaller in square kilometers than Bangkok, but it is considerably less dense. That being said, I have come to learn that its beaches, historical parks and palaces, temples, desserts, food, and more attract both Thais and foreign visitors alike. Although I have visited some of its well-sought out places, Phetchaburi (Phetch for short) is truly all about family for me. And, even though the province attracts many visitors, I have yet to see a “farang” (Caucasian foreigner) besides Brad, Mark (my sister’s husband), and maybe two or three others in my dad’s neighborhood. Actually, back in 2013 (or near that time), my grandma told me Brad was the first foreigner to visit her home in Phetch. She said it with a smile. My dad’s family is extremely open-minded and open-hearted, so it was easy for them to welcome Brad into their home and hearts. And it is extremely special sharing our family heritage with the girls.

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PHETCHABURI FAMILY

As you might recall from my last post, my mom’s side of the family is from Bangkok. My dad’s side of the family, however, is from the lesser-known province of Phetchaburi. Some have moved to other places in Thailand, but many are still in Phetch. My dad’s family actually has three houses very close to one another. Two houses (one of my dad’s sister’s and one of his aunt’s) are neighboring one another and my dad’s dad’s (my grandfather’s) is just around the corner. It’s a Thai-style, partially open-air home with the kitchen and main seating area outside. Although my dad didn’t grow up in this exact home, he said that his home was very similar and not that far.

Throughout my life, I have stayed in all three homes. However, the past few times we have visited, we have stayed in my dad’s aunt’s home. The girls enjoyed sharing a room with us lining all the mattresses, pillows, and blankets together on the signature Thai wooden floor. Over the years, the family has increasingly made it more modern simply because they wanted my sister and I to feel comfortable when we visited as young girls. Two bathrooms used to be only squatting toilets and buckets of cold water for showers, which my sister and I learned to appreciate and enjoy. However, each year, something would be slightly modernized (a new sitting toilet, an actual shower head, warm water in one bathroom, etc.). They always thought about us. Now that I bring our girls, both bathrooms are updated (one still has only cold water), but I still share some of the original Thai features with them. For example, they have experienced bathing with buckets of cool water (they actually enjoy it and call it Thai baths), squatting on toilets (at least they tried), and using water instead of toilet paper. I am so proud of them for adapting to the various cultures during our travels, especially our family's culture. It reminds me of when I was younger and, honestly, they adapted more quickly than I did.

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PHETCHABURI ATTRACTIONS

Phetchaburi always seemed small and quaint to me because my dad’s neighborhood is more rural and the lifestyle is much simpler. I also rarely saw any foreign visitors. However, I have learned over the years that it does have quite a bit of attractions and attracted various kings of Thailand over the decades. Actually, Phetchaburi is known as The City of Three Palaces because King Rama IV, V, and VI each established palaces and retreats in Phetch. It is incredible to learn that the Royal Family appreciated the province’s beaches and natural scenery so much.

BEACHES - Some of Phetch’s well-known and frequented beaches are Hua Hin (technically, in the Prachuap Khiri Khan province, which is very close to Phetchaburi), Cha-Am, and Hat Chao Samran. We have visited all three and even stayed for a week in Hua Hin last year. When I mention Phetchaburi to other Thais in Bangkok, I often get asked about the beaches.

KHAO WANG - One of our girls’ favorites was Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park, more commonly known as Khao Wang (Palace Hill). The palace was built under King Rama IV and has become one of Phetch’s most historical and iconic landmarks. Additionally, it is known for being home to several monkeys, entertaining visitors from down on the surrounding streets to all the way up the mountain.

DESSERTS - Although one might not call this an attraction, dessert is sought after here in Phetch. I recently learned that Phetch is abundant in sugar palm trees, so it is easily accessible and common in their desserts and foods. “Khao chae” (rice soaked in cool water) is one of my mom’s favorites. It is actually not very sweet, but is so refreshing in the hot weather. Another local dessert is “Khanom mo kaeng” (curry pot dessert). It is a custard-like coconut dessert made with that sweet sugar palm. So, if you’re ever in Phetch, definitely try the sweets!

Side note: the girls tried durian!!! They didn’t like it, but they didn’t spit it out either. Haha!

CAFES - As Phetch continues to grow, more modern businesses have begun to spring up. My uncle took us to the Phetchaburi Riverside Old Market where amongst the traditional market stalls is a cafe called Coffee River. Their specialty is the eggs, toast, and hot beverage combination. The girls got their own plates with steamed milks. One of the best parts about this restaurant is that you are at the end of a new bridge (it is not even on Google maps yet) with a riverside view. My cousin took us to another cafe a little further from the town center called The Life Garden Cafe. It is connected to a resort and has animals for people to see. The girls got to see goats, rabbits, fish, and cats while enjoying pineapple and watermelon refreshers. Vienna especially loved that she made a “new friend” in my cousin and even asked to hold my cousin’s hand. Side note: my cousin and I are just a few years apart. However, growing up, we had a huge language barrier. Even so, there was one year where I stayed for a week with my dad in Phetch and she and I played everyday even without being able to speak the same language. I love how play is a universal language. Now we are very close and stay in touch even across borders.

TEMPLES - Like most of Thailand, temples are prevalent throughout Phetchaburi. Wat Phetch Plee is right around the corner of my family’s home and where my family often visited. The night we arrived, the Wat was having a big celebration that lasted until midnight. The celebration included a dance called “ram wong,” which is a circle dance (I have actually performed “ram wong” many times at the Thai Temple in Berkeley when we used to attend). As much as I would have loved to have our girls go and experience this part of the Thai and Buddhist culture, we were quite tired from a long travel day. So, we went to bed early. That being said, our girls are “traveling kids” (as they like to say), so I wouldn’t be surprised if they got another chance.

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Phetchaburi is always special for me. The girls have now gone three times and have seen their great-grandfather every time. He is their only great-grandparent and they are his only great-grandchildren. It is hard not to shed happy tears as I watch him smile, hug them, and say a blessing over them. My heart feels warmer just thinking about it. We will miss you, Phetchaburi, but we know we will see you again soon!

ลาก่อน or “la gon” (bye for now)